Written by Mark Backhouse
The Whiskey Snobs Claim
The Whiskey Snobs Claim
I love this question but dislike those who
think they may dictate how we should drink whiskey. I enjoy whisky with water,
without water, with Ice, with Ginger Ale and as a base in many cocktails.
But let’s review what most of us have heard
from serious whisky men. Some may be a member or members of our family or an
acquaintance of the family. I heard this sentence many times from many people.
I used to think they knew their stuff whereas in reality they were simply
repeating urban legend and believed this statement to the point of making it their
faith. This horrible sentence is:
“Sacrilege, the distiller has spent twelve years perfecting that whiskey and you destroy it by adding water.”
Let’s make it clear that the evidence does
not support the whiskey snob’s claim.
The
Angel’s Share
After the final distillation and prior to
filling the new spirit into casks, we add water to the spirit to bring it down
to optimal strength for ageing. Note that we added water! We then move these
casks into aromatic warehouses where the angel’s take their share at the
approximate rate of 4% in the first year and 2% of the residual amount every
year thereafter. Twelve years later we have lost almost 23% of the content of
the cask.
The
Secret Angel’s Share
But we do not only lose volume to the
angels. When we put the spirit into cask it goes in at approximately 63% ABV
but when the cask is opened 12 years later the ‘cask strength’ of the alcohol
has dropped to approximately 57%. This is the more important loss during
ageing. The whiskey does not only lose volume but releases the more volatile
alcohol’s first. This is why older whiskies become smoother. A 21-year-old whiskey
will definitely be smoother than a 12-year-old whiskey due entirely to this
fact.
Urban
Legend Exposed
Now is the part of this revelation that
exposes the whiskey snob’s belief as an urban legend. If the spirit comes out
of cask at 57% ABV, how do we reduce it to bottling strength? In South Africa
our standard ABV by law is 43% and most of the rest of the world is 40% ABV.
We add water before bottling. Oops, this is distiller sacrilege – NOT.
(In the US and some other countries, whisky may be sold at higher or lower than 40%ABV as long as this is stated on the label. In SA it may be higher than 43% but not lower than 43% ABV).
(In the US and some other countries, whisky may be sold at higher or lower than 40%ABV as long as this is stated on the label. In SA it may be higher than 43% but not lower than 43% ABV).
I repeat, we add water prior to bottling to
reduce the strength of the whiskey to the required bottling strength. Then -
whiskey is an organic thing and goes to sleep in the bottle. When we open our
whiskey, we must add water to bring it back to life and to allow it to blossom and
exhibit an incredible array of notes you never get without this splash of
water.
But drink your whiskey as you like it. I
personally like my whiskey with Ginger Ale if we are entertaining around a
barbeque. If I have a single malt whisky I add a splash of water. If I have a
blended whiskey I add water first and then Ice. Never ever ice first unless it
is an American Bourbon or Jameson Gold that has also used a virgin oak barrel.
That’s me. Enjoy your whiskey as you want, knowing that the snobs are wrong.
Closing
Feel free to disagree with me but before you do please note that I drink all whiskies that are older than 18 years old without ice or water. Why? Because the secret Angle's share has increased and the whiskey is smooth enough for me.
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